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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.